Lillemag-Sewalong- Kosmo – Zuschnitt

Habt ihr eure Scheren gerichtet? Es geht los mit dem Zuschnitt.

Im letzten Beitrag habe ich ich ja erklärt wie ihr euer Papierschnittmuster kopieren könnt. 

Habt ihr einen Stoff in uni oder einem Muster bei dem man nicht auf einen Verlauf achten müsst könnt ihr direkt loslegen.

Vorderteile und das Rückteil entsprechend auf den Stoffbruch legen, mit ein paar Nadeln feststecken und zuschneiden.

Die Ärmel werden gegengleich zugeschnitten. Am einfachsten funktioniert das in doppelter Stofflage.

  • Achtung: Naht- und Saumzugaben sind nicht im Schnitt enthalten, diese müssen dann berücksichtigt werden. Ich nehme als Nahtzugabe meisten einen knappen  cm bei der Saumzugabe bin ich eher großzügig.

 

Die Knipse im Schnitt könnt ihr euch mit kleinen Einschnitten, einer Stecknadel oder einem Trickmarker markieren.

 

 

Bei größeren Motiven möchte ich euch aber unbedingt noch ein paar  Tipps mitgeben.

Näht ihr ein Oberteil mit einem Musterstoff macht euch vorher Gedanken wie euer Shirt danach aussehen soll.

  • Wo sollen bestimmte Motive platziert sein, bzw wo sollten sie auf keinen Fall platziert werden?

Letztes Jahr hatte ich mal ein Missgeschick, welches mir erst aufgefallen ist, als mein Shirt komplett fertig war und ich damit vor dem Spiegel stand. Ich hatte auf jeder Brust eine riesen Blume. Sagen wir es mal so, es war eher suboptimal. Ich versuche zwar immer beim Zuschnitt darauf zu achten, aber dann ist es soch ab und zu mal schön späterer Abend und ich denke nicht mehr daran,  oder ich bin sonst mit den Gedanken vielleicht woanders. Kennt sicher jeder. Also habe ich mir angewöhnt, dass ich die zu beachtenden Stellen immer auf meinem Schnittmuster kennzeichne, so denke ich einfach daran und es passiert mir nicht noch einmal.

 

 

 

Das Kreuz müsste natürlich ein Stück weiter nach links, aber es ist ja in erster Linie ein Merker. Gerade bei diesem Stoff könnte er sehr gefährlich werden wenn man nicht genau auf das Muster achtet. Stellt euch mal vor, die beiden Blüten am Halsausschnitt wären 10 cm tiefer platziert. 😉

Weiter geht es mit dem Rückteil und den Ärmeln. Leider stimmt es bei mir nicht ganz, da ich sonst mit meinem Stoff nicht ganz hin gekommen wäre, aber ich erkläre euch wie es richtig geht.

Ihr solltet euch immer am Armausschnitt orientieren. D.h. Der Armausschnitt den oberen Vorderteils, des Rückteils und den Ärmeln sollte auf der gleichen Höhe angeordnet sein.

Hier seht ihr es also am Rückteil und Ärmel. Das obere Vorderteil und der andere Ärmel sollten vom Musterverlauf ebenso zugeschnitten werden.

Da beim Kosmo, das Vorderteil aber eine Unterteilung hat, müsst ihr auch beim unteren Vorderteil auf den Musterverlauf achten. Hier orientiert ihr  euch am Rückenteil.

Hier sollten jedoch die Abschlüsse das gleiche Muster haben.

Wenn alles zugeschnitten ist sollte es dann so aussehen (Achtung: das obere Vorderteil stimmt in meinem Beispiel nicht ganz!)

 

 

Den Streifen für den Halsausschnitt schneiden wir dann zu wenn wir ihn benötigen, also bewahrt euch noch ein Stück Stoff dafür auf.

So, das war es für heute, morgen beginnen wir dann mit dem nähen. 🙂

Liebe Grüße

Melanie

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