Entschuldigt bitte die etwas längere Pause, aber heute gehts nun endlich weiter mit dem Nähen.
Im letzten Beitrag habe ich ja den Zuschnitt erklärt. Heute erkläre ich nun Schritt für Schritt wie das Kleid genäht wird.
Als ersten werden die Brust und Rückabnäher genäht.
Hierfür legt ihr nun die aufgezeichneten Linien übereinander und steckt sie gut fest. Anschließend näht ihr die beiden Stofflagen mit einem Geradstich zusammen. Die Brustabnäher werden nach unten gebügelt, die Rückenabnäher nach innen.
Anschließend bereitet ihr den Beleg für die Fake-Knopfleiste zu. Hierfür werden die letzten 2 cm mit einem Vlies verstärkt. Ich nehme Immer H180 ihr könnt euch aber auch gerne in eurem Nähladen des Vertrauens beraten lassen. Inzwischen gibt es so viele verschiedene Vliese, dass mit Sicherheit für jeden das Richtige dabei ist. Das Vlies sollte zu eurem Stoff passen und nicht zu fest sein.
Im nächsten Schritt wird der Beleg auf das Vorderteil gelegt, gesteckt und festgenäht.
Die Nahtzugaben werden bis kurz vor die Naht eingeschnitten, dass es später dann eine schöne Rundung gibt. Unbedingt aufpassen, dass die Naht nicht verletzt wird.
Anschließend wird der Beleg umgeklappt und gut gebügelt.
Nun wird nun die schmalere Seite des Vorderteils auf die offene Seite den festgenähten Belegs gesteckt. Anschließend steckst du die beide Vorderteile komplett fest. Das Ende der Knopfleiste nähe ich mich der normalen Nähmaschine, dass auch alle Stofflagen erfasst sind und weil ich damit einfach sauberer und genauer Nähen kann. Die restliche Strecke kannst du mit der Overlock nähen.
Einmal umgedreht sollte dein Vorderteil nun so aussehen.
Da ich mich immer erst am Schluss für die passenden knöpfe entscheiden kann , fixiere ich die Knopfleiste erst mal mit Stecknadeln.
Im Anschluss werden die Schulternähte geschlossen.
Auf zu den Ärmeln! Falls eine Coverlock vorhanden ist könnt ihr jetzt schon säumen. Beide Ärmel werden festgesteckt und angenäht.
Jetzt ist das schwierigste auch schon geschafft!
Stecke nun die Seiten zusammen. Achte darauf dass die Nähte an den Ärmeln übereinander liegen. Auch solltest du darauf achten dass die Brustabnäher nach unten zeigen.
Bei den Belegen den Halsauschnitts bügelst du nun auch ein Vlies auf und nähst die kurzen Enden zusammen.
Die äußere lange Seite wird versäubert.
Anschließend rechts auf recht auf das Kleid stecken und festnähen.
Die Nahtzugaben werden nun nach oben gebügelt und knappkantig an den Beleg gesteppt.
Die Belegt kannst du an dwen Schulternähten noch mit ein paar Handstichen fixieren.
Anschließend wird gesäumt. Ich Säume immer mit einer Nahtzugabe von etwa 2 cm.
Wenn du dich für Knöpfe entschieden hast kannst du diese nun annähen.
Geschafft!
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